Move iPhone Photos to an External Drive, Then Delete
Your iPhone says storage is almost full. iCloud says the same, and you are not keen on paying for a bigger plan every month for photos from 2019 you look at twice a year. You have a USB stick or an old portable drive in a drawer. You want those older photos on the drive and off the phone, without losing anything.
The short answer: copy first, check the copy, then delete. On a USB-C iPhone you can do the whole thing from the phone: plug the drive in, select photos in Photos, tap Share → Save to Files, and choose the drive. Once the copies open properly from the drive, delete them from Photos. The one step you cannot skip is the check, because if iCloud Photos is on, deleting from the phone deletes the photos from iCloud and every other device as well.
Before you start: one drive is one copy. If these are the only photos of your kids' first years, keep them in two places: two drives, or a drive plus a computer. Drives do fail, and nobody notices until the day they need one.
What you need
- A drive the iPhone can connect to. iPhone 15 and later have USB-C, so a USB-C stick or drive plugs straight in. Older iPhones with a Lightning port need Apple's Lightning to USB 3 Camera Adapter, which also has a Lightning port for charging while it's connected.
- Enough power. Flash drives and most portable SSDs run on the phone's power. Many spinning hard drives need more than an iPhone supplies. If the drive doesn't show up, or iOS says the accessory needs too much power, connect it through a powered hub or plug a charger into the adapter.
- A format the iPhone can write to. exFAT works with iPhone, Mac and Windows, so it's the safe choice. APFS works too if you only use Macs. A drive formatted on Windows as NTFS may show up but refuse to save. Reformatting wipes the drive, so move anything already on it first.
- Wi-Fi, if you use iCloud Photos. With Optimize iPhone Storage on, the phone holds small versions of most photos. Saving them out downloads the full originals first, which is slow over mobile data and a big reason large batches stall.
Method 1: straight from the iPhone (no computer)
- Plug the drive in. Open the Files app, tap Browse, and check the drive appears under Locations. Make a folder for this batch while you're there, for example Photos 2019. The folder name is all you'll have to find things later.
- Open Photos and select one batch: a trip, a month, or one year's worth of photos. Keep batches to a few hundred items. The share sheet can stall on thousands at once, and a failed half-copy is worse than a slow full one.
- Tap the Share button. At the top of the share sheet, Options controls whether location data is included. Leave it on if you want the map information to go with the copies.
- Scroll down and tap Save to Files. Choose the drive, then the folder you made, and tap Save. Keep the phone unlocked and the drive connected until the progress finishes.
- Repeat for the next batch.
Videos come along the same way. They're often the biggest things on the phone and the most worth archiving: a single evening of 4K footage can outweigh a year of photos.
Method 2: with a computer
For a whole library, a computer is faster and less fiddly, and you can point it straight at the external drive.
- Mac: connect the iPhone with a cable, unlock it and tap Trust if asked. Open Image Capture, select the iPhone in the sidebar, set Import To to a folder on the external drive, and import. Leave the delete after import option off. You want to check the copy before anything leaves the phone.
- Windows: connect and trust the iPhone, then import with the Windows Photos app, or copy from the phone's DCIM folder in File Explorer, onto the external drive.
Two catches when you use a cable. First, a computer only sees what's actually on the phone. If iCloud Photos has optimised your library, the photos stored only in iCloud won't be there to import. In that case use Method 1, or download from iCloud.com or the Photos app on a Mac signed in to the same account. Second, look at Transfer to Mac or PC at the bottom of the Photos settings. Automatic converts to JPEG for compatibility; Keep Originals copies the HEIC files as they are.
Check the copy before you delete anything
This is the step people skip, and it's the one that decides whether this goes well. On the drive, in Files or on the computer:
- Compare counts. The Photos selection showed how many items you chose; the folder should hold about the same number. Live Photos can show up as a photo file plus a short video file, so a slightly higher number is normal. A lower one isn't.
- Open a handful. Pick a few from the start, middle and end of the batch, and play at least one video all the way through. A file that's there but won't open is not a backup.
- Eject the drive properly on a computer before you unplug it. Pulling it mid-write is the most common way a good copy goes bad.
Delete from the phone, knowing what it does
Now select the same batch in Photos and delete it. What that does depends on one setting:
- iCloud Photos on: there is one library, so the delete removes the photos from the iPhone, from iCloud, and from your iPad and Mac. That's what frees up your iCloud storage too, and it's exactly why the checked copy had to come first. (If you'd rather keep them in iCloud and only lighten the phone, that's a different job: see deleting photos from iPhone but not iCloud.)
- iCloud Photos off: the delete only affects this phone. Other devices keep their own copies.
Either way, the photos go to Recently Deleted for 30 days first, and they still take up space there. The space only comes back when that album is emptied. If you want a safety margin, wait a few days, open a few files from the drive again, and then empty it. There's a walkthrough in how to empty Recently Deleted on iPhone, and if you delete something by mistake, how to get deleted photos back covers the 30-day window.
Don't archive the junk
Every duplicate, blurry shot and old parking-spot screenshot you copy costs drive space and transfer time, and it'll still be clutter when you open that folder in five years. Clearing those first makes the archive smaller and easier to browse later. You can do it by hand, using the Duplicates album in Photos under Utilities, the Screenshots album under Media Types, and your own eyes for blur. There's more in finding and deleting duplicate photos.
We make an app for this part, so read the next bit knowing that. Phone Diet scans the library for duplicate and similar photos, blurry and dark shots, old screenshots, screen recordings and large videos. Its Quick Clean clears just the obvious three (duplicates, blurry photos and old screenshots) in one tap, and the full clean also compresses large videos instead of deleting them. Anything it removes goes to the Photos app's Recently Deleted, and the app also keeps its own copy in a Recover tab for 7, 30 or 60 days, whichever you choose.

What it doesn't do: it doesn't copy, export or back up anything to a drive or a computer. The copying in this guide is all Apple's Photos and Files apps. If your plan is to move the whole library off the phone and you don't mind the junk coming along, you don't need our app for this job. The first cleanup is free; after that, the free version allows 5 more deletions in total before it asks you to upgrade. It needs iOS 17 or later.
Keeping the phone from filling up again
An archive works best as a habit rather than a one-off rescue. Once a year, say every January, move the year before last onto the drive, check it, and delete it from the phone. If you'd rather keep some of your big videos on the phone, compressing them is the middle ground: see how to compress videos on iPhone.
Tonight: do one batch
Pick your oldest full year in Photos, copy just that to the drive, open five files from it, and only then delete it from the phone. If the drive-and-check routine works for one year, the rest of the library is repetition.
Clear the junk first — free first cleanup